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Our plinth blocks come in six different sizes for you to customize to your home? It comes in Poplar, Northern Red Oak, and Radiata Pine wood species. The best part about our plinth blocks is you can purchase full boards of this element, available in 10-foot, 12-foot, 14-foot, or 16-foot lengths. Or, you can buy them by each component, available in 6-inches, 6 ? If you need help, please feel free to contact your local store for available inventory.
We recently replaced the flooring on the main level of our home and what started out as one project, quickly morphed into several. If you give a mouse a cookie… The original floors were thicker than the new engineered hardwoods, so we were left with an unsightly gap between the door casings and the new floors. Instead of replacing all of the door casings and trim, we chose to install plinth blocks to bridge the gap.
Hi, I’m Jen Woodhouse!
If you are installing a single door trim at a time, you can buy a 4′ x 4′ x1/2″ MDF board from Home Depot for about $12.00, from which you can make a box full of plinth blocks! You can find these pre-cut MDF boards usually near the molding isle. Think of plinth blocks as the transition to your baseboard. They sit at the bottom of a door frame and add a decorative corner element where your base moulding meets the door trim moulding. Adding these elements to your trim will bring your whole design together without looking like one abruptly stops where another starts.
Then I pulled the cut piece of the casing off and slid the plinth block in its place. I attached it to the wall with 2-inch brad nails. The upside to Victorian style plinth blocks is there are a few companies that sell authentic reproductions, like Vintage Woodworks. They really know their Victorian moldings — good prices, too. Cut your “blank” plinth blocks to the height you want (usually about 1/4″ taller than the top of your baseboard buildup) from your staked and glued together flat-stock.
How to Make Your Own Plinth Blocks
I like to terminate most door trim moldings on top of beefy plinth blocks like these. Plinth blocks come in various sizes and profiles and you can purchase them from your local millwork supplier or from home improvement stores like The Home Depot. Because we’re painting our trim, we chose paint-grade poplar plinth blocks with a simple routed edge on three sides. The plinths give the door trim something substantial to rest on, just like in Classical Greek architecture. They also provide a place to terminate the larger baseboards I just know you’re going to install.
To see my DIY Victorian style plinth block go to this page DOOR TRIM-114. The two bevel edges can be a little bit more rounded than the rest of the plinth edges. Use a palm sander to sand the exposed end grains on the plinth. Be careful not to round any of the corners too much — leave all but the two bevel edges sharp — the two bevel edges can be rounded off just a bit more than the others.
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I’m excited to be partnering with Dremel on this project – the Dremel Multi-Max is the ideal tool for this job! It tackled this task quickly, easily, and efficiently. You can watch a video of the Multi-Max in action on my Instagram account. I simply cut across the door casing, following along the pencil line carefully.
I made these plinth blocks just under 4″ wide, so you’ll need to rip a piece of MDF board that wide. Make them wide enough so you can shave a little off of each side to clean up the edges . Besides, you want the versatility of making them to the exact height and thickness for whatever door trim you’re going to install on top of them. Put a 45 degree bevel on the inside corner of each plinth block. I like to make the bevel a little less than 1/2″ thick so that it terminates just before the seam between the two stacked pieces of flat-stock. Make your plinth blocks to the exact dimensions you need for your installation.
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Will be replacing flooring soon and will likely have the same issue. Jen, Would you share the color you used on the baseboards and the color on the wall? Looking at gray to lighten up our dark baseboards and molding. We’ll need to cut into our door casing to accommodate the plinth block, so I first set the plinth block in place and marked the height.
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It’s the standard way to close off/finish the intersection of the floor and the baseboard. It’d be a good idea to put something heavy on top or to clamp them tightly together. A few pieces of 1/2″ MDF board are all you need to make plenty of plinths. Pre-pay for multiple images and download on demand. Note how the beveled edges are sanded a little more round than the other edges. This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks.
Problem is, there aren’t many available plinth blocks you can just go out and buy, and half of the ones you can buy you don’t want because they’re designed for small, contractor-grade trim. Plinth blocks in Craftsman style designs are not as common as Victorian, but when you do see them they are usually a simple flat-stock plinth. Look up CROWN MOLDING-133 under my Numbered Patterns category to see an example — about half way down the page.
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